Khan-Tengriis located in the Central Tian-Shan close to the border. Its name is translateddifferently: “Prince of spirits” or “Ruler of Heavens”. Until recently theheight of Khan-Tengri was 6995 meters above the sea level; but according torecent data its height is 7010 m, although some people doubt that. Perhaps, oneof the reasons is that now, in order to get the title of “Snow leopard”, it isnecessary to climb five tops, not four, with the height of over 7000 m in the Central Asia.

On the sidesof the mountain Khan-Tengri there is Kazakh-Chinese border. According to somesources the mountain connects three borders – but it is not exactly true –three borders meet at 7 km to the west on the height of 6637, peak East Shaktor. In the past there used to be some confusionbetween Khan-Tengri and peak of Victory;Semenov-Tianshansky erroneously defined the latter as Khan-Tengri, when in 1857he first was in the region. It was spoken of for 1200 years, and explorerslooked for the approach to the foot of the mountain. Semenov confused the peakwith its neighbor – peak of Victory. The first onewho saw the whole peak and found the way to it along the glacier Inilchek, wasGottfrit Merzbaher. He understood that any attempt to climb the peak demands awell-prepared expedition; and in 1931 another member of the expedition wrotethat the probability of ascension on the peak Khan-Tengri is no more than 5%.

In1912 Russian topographical expedition took place. It created a lot of maps ofthe region. The attempt to climb Khan-Tengri in 1929 failed. The firstsuccessful ascension was done by Ukrainian team in 1931; and this route iscalled classical. It has been 33 years since another route was found; and bynow there are 9 ways to the top. The next climbing took place in 1936. It wasfollowed by another, headed by Ambulakov, who was the first one to conquer theCommunist peak in Pamir. At first, it seemed,the luck was on his side, as the group of five alpinists managed to reach thepeak before the planned time. however, while descending some difficultiesoccurred, and one of the climbers died of frostbite, and two others came toharm as well. All this happened 18 years before another successful attempt of

climbing thisunforgettable mountain.

The localscall this mountain Kann Too, which is translated from Kazakh as “Bloody Mountain”;probably because of its red color, which it takes during sunset, or due to thenumber of climbers, who died, trying to reach its top.

Onthe peak Khan-Tengri (Kann Too) there is a capsule buried. It contains amessage from previous alpinists, who conquered the mountain, to the futureones. Every new climber, reaching the top, digs out the capsule, and writestheir own message with a pencil – it is impossible to write with ink – writestheir name, date of ascension and busies it again. Regardless the high numbersof accidents, a lot of alpinists still try to reach the top of Kann Too.Nowadays there are established ways to the top and a number of facilities, suchas the camp at the foot of the mountain.